San Francisco

If the airline says be at an airport two hours ahead of schedule, they mean it. Somewhere along the line my visa to the States was lost in the system so when we came to print our airline tickets at the automated kiosk, mine didn’t appear. With further enquiries, we found that although my ticket didn’t print, the computer said it would be fine. From this point forward as I walked through security checkpoint after security checkpoint everything checked through. On reaching final boarding control a rather brisk security officer made me follow him to another counter. Everything turned out fine, as  had all the paperwork on me  and I was allowed on the plane but it explains a little of the lengths airport staff go to check everything is in order, often beyond common sense; and the customer suffers for technological cockups too.

After a short flight to Frankfurt we scoured the corridor shopping complexes for painkillers. Once we had these we soon realised how extensive this airport is. On arriving at Gate F we discovered a queue of what seemed like more than 500 ready to go through a final security check before boarding. We knew that our flight was not far away from departure time, and fortunately a screen came up with our flight number on it and we all shot across to the express lane.

San Francisco airport is so much smaller by comparison to both Amsterdam and Frankfurt. The train from the International terminal took us within three blocks of our hotel. We had re-read the descriptors relating to our room and after going over it four or five times, decided we were to have a room with a shared bathroom. We were delighted to find that this was actually not the case, and we had a very large room with our own bathroom complete with bath. It was situated in the Hispanic area and about a half hour bus ride into the main city centre. Every bus ride was full of drama, especially if we sat at the rear. There’d always be some loud conversation going on in either English or Spanish , perhaps a musician, a singer, a heavy smoker who hadn’t washed for weeks, an old lady chatting away to herself, a guy telling the bus driver about the lover who had only lasted six months…it was all there being played out before us as we rolled back and forth to town.

We were pretty tired on arrival so slept for a few a few hours before heading out for a meal in town, a ride on the cable car and a short stroll along fisherman’s wharf. We saw the seals in the half light at Pier 39, wandered through the shops there, and picked on a meal in fish restaurant where the salad was a whole lettuce chopped up. I had forgotten how enormous portions of food are in the US.

The following day, was the first day of our 3 day Go San Fransisco pass. We decided on a cruise under Golden Gate Bridge and around Alcatraz. It was a perfect day for it with a light breeze, and hardly anyone on board! The added bonus was watching the America’s Cup yachts practising their manoeuvres across the bay. We then took a two and a half hour ride around the town in an open double decker. The weather began to cloud over as we headed for the Golden Gate Bridge so that by the time we reached it we couldn't see it and it was freezing. We ran inside the shop and bought sweatshirts alongside at least another dozen people on the tour. We treated ourselves to a couple of very warm Irish coffees at Buena Vista Café before stumbling upon a fascinating gallery and gallery owner Sean Ashley. There were some highly prized works there including some Picasso,  and Dali prints. Sean was a good storyteller around the work but nothing beat the giant limited edition posters from the estate of Dr Seuss. Enough said. Also on display were his animals and I was particularly taken with his fish.

The following day we headed for Golden Gate Park, and the Californian Academy of Earth Sciences designed by Piano was our first stop. What a marvellous space. Once inside the first thing you notice is how open it is; on each side of you see two enormous spheres reaching towards the ceiling. One is transparent and is the tropical rainforest display. We headed there first over the boardwalk which is a tidal area full of colourful fish, anemones and coral; then through a sort of quarantine area and onto a walkway which spirals itself up to the treetops. Around us were the most colourful birds and butterflies. It was fascinating, and I could have stayed there for hours taking photos; but we had to move on. We plunged into the basement via elevator which was an aquarium and the water below the pools we had walked over earlier. Again there was plenty to see, and touch if we’d wanted to.

The second sphere is a planetarium, an interactive Imax cinema. The feature was earthquakes with real-time information on earthquakes around the world.

We decided to head over to the second museum for lunch- the Art Museum of San Francisco (de Young) which houses collections bequeathed or donated by individuals.

The choice of restaurant for lunch was really lovely as it looked across the park where Janice Joplin and Jimmy Hendrix played in the 60s. Now it is full of palms and quite beautiful. We had a wine to celebrate S’s birthday. After a further 3 hours looking around we decided on looking for a meal in the Italian Quarter. We soon stumbled upon a restaurant with outdoor seats and heating. It was an excellent choice as all the food was prepared on site including the home made crabmeat ravioli which I chose. While we were eating, a minstrel strolled by in a top hat and offered a song. Being S’s birthday, I said “why not?” and so away he went with great enthusiasm and rich melodious tones singing his own version of a happy birthday song. At dessert time, a larger size creme brule was served complete with one birthday candle and a song from not only the waiter but the chef and his assistant as well singing Happy Birthday in Italian.  I think, but I am not completely sure, that S was grinning from ear to ear. I think he’d had a good birthday.

Our third day plan using the Go San Francisco Card was to visit the Aquarium at Pier 39 followed by a visit to the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SF MOMA). While the Aquarium was really just a chance to use our card to as much advantage as we could, MOMA was planned and again, we were not disappointed. S had been there before but still the place was full of some great exhibitions. I wish I could have taken my drama students to see one exhibition in particular on space, media and theatre. It was totally absorbing. I was caught up there so ran out of time to really take in  the fabulous photography. One photography exhibition that did stand out was the one showing the aftermath of the tsunami in Japan.

We went in search of a bookshop after this which was a bit like trying to find a needle in a haystack. We failed. We ended up in the huge Westfield Shopping Centre which backed onto Bloomingdales.  Perhaps the most impressive feature was the winding the escalator in the main hall that spiralled up maybe seven storeys. We chose to eat in the food hall and again were dished up the obligatory the over-sized platefuls. A little is never enough.

Our final day in San Francisco was nothing less than perfect. We rode the bus downtown as far as it would take us (to the bottom of Mission) and found the van which makes the best flat whites we’d had since travelling for a while. This van sits in the farmer’s market by the ferry terminal. We had breakfast and sat at tables and met some interesting folk including a couple hosting some Austrian women.

We had decided we’d take a tour out to Muir Woods to walk amongst the giant redwood trees. Our tour guide chatted all the way up there and all the way back regaling us with stories of who lived where. We learned which street and house Mrs Doubtfire was made, where Andre Agassi lives and which hotel Marilyn Munroe and her first husband stayed after their wedding. On the way home a United Airline 747 was circling San Francisco harbour, and skimmed above us as we crossed the Golden Gate Bridge for the last time. It was a fantastic sight to see all the boats out on the water and the planes- the Boeing, the fighter jets and acrobatic planes going through their paces…to see hundreds of people out on the beaches, the banks and rooftops enjoying the best a sunny San Francisco autumn afternoon can give.  By the time we made it back into town and hopped on the bus back to the hotel, it was time to gather our things and head on the train to the airport.

It really didn’t take long to check through and at last I personally was able to enjoy a smooth transition between one side of border security to the other. S wore his watch through the xray machine which got the guards excited for a few seconds until they realised what it was… “Haven’t you read the signs?” they thought as they gesticulated vaguely towards the signage. “Um…We’re actually just keen to get home.” The only other surprise was an announcement that we (S and I) needed to go to the counter. We were told we’d been moved away from the basinettes to a much more convenient seat. When we boarded the plan there was still a baby across the aisle. Oh well…they tried.